AFWN 2018 Day One: The Good And The Bad

What I love about fashion events is its ability to bridge the gap that creates classism and segregation. Lagos is a city copious with division and elitist attitude. Whether it’s the type of phone you use, your mode of transportation, where you live, what you wear, your circle of friends… there is always an underlined split. But with Africa Fashion Week Nigeria, this divide blurs out. All classes of people tent under one roof with a similar purpose – to enjoy style, creativity and fashion.

This year, there was a cloud of uncertainty shrouding the event. The show which was initially slated to hold in July was moved more than once; perhaps it was as a result of inadequate funding. Whatever the reason, it is true what they say: “All is well that ends well”.

The event, maybe due to circumstances beyond their control, succumbed to African timing, creating a bit of unease and frustration for those who arrived on time. This caused the runway shows to run late into the night, preventing attendee’s from staying until the end. But, there were those who didn’t care much about this hiccup (unfortunately, I didn’t belong to this group).

“Africa Fashion Week Nigeria has reduced its standards.” A friend casually said, after the event. Perhaps she was right, but I felt differently. Where she saw a reduction in standards, I saw a much-needed platform that creates an opportunity to fill the gaps in our fashion scene.

You see, the heavyweight designers – those who have successfully trickled into the international market, or at least, generated local buzz – are already well represented and have a near-perfect positioning within the fashion industry. But, what about the upcoming designers? Should we let visibility elude them for the sake of maintaining ‘standards’?

Prior to the event, my knowledge of African fashion brands was limited to the A-listers; I was unaware of any fashion brand named F&F, and neither did I have an inkling of Habeebat, the modest fashion brand.

The fast-paced nature of the fashion industry, like most industries, depend on an era’s penchant, hence, it’s not unusual for first-timers to waltz in, and attempt to find their place at the table. If they are lucky, they’ll evolve with the times and create a cult following for their brand, but if not, they fade into the background.

Be that as it may, creating a platform for fashion brands that are just beginning to find their footing in the industry is what AFWN has done, and I applaud them for this. But let’s not presume these brands get a pass for creative mediocrity.

I wasn’t too impressed.

Besides the age-old merge of Ankara with block fabrics by Afrikoncept, abstract prints on fluidal fabrics by Oladehinde, and the embroidered turtleneck dresses by F&F Afro fashion house, the standout shows for me featured colourful and artistic creations by Hosh Couture and the ultra-feminine designs by Funke Flawless.

This doesn’t imply that every other brand was void of creativity, but their attempt at being creative was foiled by gaffes like ill-finished and poorly-fitted clothes.

This raises the question of fittings before the show – a sweeping challenge that plagues our catwalks and prevents it from reaching the peak standard. Models, sometimes, embarrassingly strut the runway wearing pieces that don’t sit right – the outfits are either too tight or not snug enough or somewhere in-between.

Dealing with this issue may require many moving parts, but what does it take for an outfit to be properly finished? A good eye for excellence, perfection and up to par tailoring skills – quite a number of pieces lacked these. Also, bulky doesn’t always mean better, and neither does it hide a multitude of construction flaws from those with keen eyesight, it just amplifies it.

Okay, maybe I’m focused too much on the bad and not enough on the good. A number of pieces actually caught my attention in a good way.

Truthfully, I’m rooting to see most of these designers improve on their craft and make a name for themselves. We need the rest of the world to know that fashion is a big deal in Africa.

Image Credit: Africa Fashion Week Nigeria