For many people with natural hair, one of the most common challenges is dealing with undergrowth. This refers to the new hair that grows from the roots after relaxing or straightening the hair. It is often thicker, curlier and more textured than the processed strands, which can make styling and maintenance more difficult. Learning how to manage undergrowth properly can help prevent breakage, reduce discomfort and keep your hair looking neat and healthy.
- Keep the hair moisturised
Natural undergrowth tends to be drier and more prone to tangling than relaxed hair. Regular moisturising is key. Use a water based moisturiser, followed by a natural oil or butter such as shea butter, olive oil or coconut oil to seal in the moisture. Pay special attention to the roots, as this is where the new growth is thickest.
- Detangle gently
Detangling can be tricky when two different textures meet. Use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers to gently work through tangles, starting from the ends and moving upward. Applying a leave-in conditioner before detangling makes the process easier and reduces breakage.
- Protective styling
Protective styles such as braids, twists, buns or cornrows can help manage undergrowth by keeping the roots neat and reducing daily manipulation. These styles also protect the hair from external stress and help it retain moisture. Be careful not to make the styles too tight, as this can damage the roots and cause pain.
- Regular deep conditioning
Deep conditioning helps soften new growth and makes it more manageable. Aim to deep condition at least once a week using a moisturising treatment. Adding heat with a warm towel or a hair steamer allows the conditioner to penetrate more deeply into the strands.
- Stretching techniques
Stretching the natural hair helps reduce shrinkage and tangling between the new growth and relaxed hair. Techniques such as banding, threading, twist outs and braid outs are simple ways to keep the undergrowth stretched without using heat.
- Regular retouching or Transitioning
If you relax your hair, managing undergrowth often means deciding when to retouch. Waiting too long can cause breakage where the two textures meet. On the other hand, if you are transitioning to fully natural hair, you can manage the undergrowth by trimming off the relaxed ends gradually until you reach your desired length.
- Patience and Consistency
Managing undergrowth takes time and care. Be patient with your hair and maintain a consistent routine. The more you care for your roots, the healthier and easier to manage your hair will become.