It may be debatable that a man’s dressing is assessed from his shoes upwards. Footwear is undoubtedly a fashion piece that can turn an ordinary look into an extraordinary look. It is also an instant mood booster. Hence, shoes are major concerns when it comes to dressing.
Black has been the shoe colour of choice and fashion staple because it goes with everything. However, when stepping your fashion game, you may want to infuse other colours. This is where it requires enough tactics, creativity and boldness.
According to Fashionbeans, for the shoe colour novice, there are some basic rules to guide your choice each morning.
- Block colours are always smarter than anything multicoloured.
- Generally, darker tones are smarter than lighter. They’re more versatile, too.
- Smartness is dictated by decoration as well as shade: black Derbies are smarter than tan, but chocolate Oxfords can be more refined than both.
- Trainers and smart shoes obey different rules: white Oxfords are slightly weird, but white trainers will work with anything in your wardrobe.
- It doesn’t matter what colour your shoes are if they’re scuffed. Find a polish that matches, or a neutral polish if you’ve gone for something wilder, and keep them in good nick. They’ll last longer, too.
- If you’re wearing something bright on your feet, then anchor them with neutrals elsewhere. Bold shoes are easier to pull off if you’re not also wearing a Hawaiian shirt.
In almost every circumstance, black shoes are the smartest version in any category. Black should be your go-to for black tailoring, whether you need something for a black tie or just a formal work shoe. Fashion expert say they also team well with grey or charcoal tailoring, particularly in more formal offices.
Brown shoes
Brown is the most forgiving shade of smart shoes. The breadth of browns available means that there’s a tone for almost any situation, bar the very smartest offices; even a pair of bespoke chocolate John Lobbs will have you blackballed in some investment banks. But with anything other than a black suit or tuxedo, brown shoes add personality and feel a touch less stuffy.
Oxblood shoes
It is easier to pull off oxblood if you dress them down a touch; Derbies are a more versatile choice than Oxfords because, while they won’t work with your smartest suits, you can wear them with everything from navy tailoring to jeans and chinos. That said, if you live in suits, a pair of burnished, oxblood Oxfords, with a Berluti-style patina, can be a distinctive way to make them feel more varied. They’re particularly good for making your workwear wedding-ready.
Tan shoes
Tan is brown’s most casual tone. In smarter styles, tan is a good way to personalise an outfit — the kind of look-at-me tailoring that pervades Pitti Uomo is often accessorised by a tan loafer or brogue. It’s a particularly good anchor for brighter shades of blue or to take the stuffiness out of patterns like pinstripes. Tan works well with jeans of all shades and chinos of any colour, especially in summer when they serve to lighten your look up a bit.
Blue shoes
Blue can be an uncomfortable colour for smart shoes — though it’s a staple neutral everywhere else in your wardrobe, shiny blue leather tends to look a little try-hard. Once you step into more casual styles, however, blue is a perfect way to add some personality to looks. Textured leathers like nubuck work well in navy, says Vieira, and can even be worn as a pop of unexpected colour in black casual outfits.
White trainers
White trainers can be worn with just about anything (in the right context, of course; they’re probably not the best thing to pair with tailoring for partnership interviews at your law firm). They’ll work with any suit, even black — although you’re best swapping the shirt and tie for something like a roll neck or long-sleeved polo — and look great with any pair of jeans, from premium Japanese selvedge to shredded stonewash. Same for chinos, for shorts, for parachute pants; whatever trousers you’ve got, white trainers will work.